Anthea Sylbert, an Oscar-nominated costume designer renowned for her work on iconic films of the late 1960s and 1970s, has passed away at the age of 84. Her death was confirmed by Robert Romanus, who directed a documentary about her life. Sylbert’s illustrious career included designing costumes for films such as “Rosemary’s Baby,” “Carnal Knowledge,” “Chinatown,” “Shampoo,” “Julia,” and “King Kong.” Later in her career, she transitioned into producing, working on several films starring Goldie Hawn.
Sylbert’s contributions to the film industry were significant, both in front of and behind the camera. She served as an executive at United Artists and Warner Bros. during a time when few women held such positions in Hollywood. Her collaborations with director Mike Nichols, both onscreen and onstage, were particularly notable. Sylbert received Oscar nominations for her costume design in “Chinatown” (1974) and “Julia” (1977).
GlamAmor, a website dedicated to the history of fashion in film, praised Sylbert’s work on “Chinatown” in 2012, noting how she crafted clothes for Faye Dunaway that fit within the film’s warm palette while also referencing noir predecessors like “Double Indemnity” and “Mildred Pierce.” Jack Nicholson, who starred in “Chinatown,” was so fond of his wardrobe that he made a special effort to keep it.
Sylbert’s career as a costume designer spanned 21 films, including period pieces like “Carnal Knowledge,” “The Fortune,” “The Last Tycoon,” and “F.I.S.T.” She also worked on Elaine May’s “The Heartbreak Kid” and “A New Leaf,” as well as “The Day of the Dolphin,” directed by Nichols.
In 1977, Sylbert joined Warner Bros. as VP of special projects and was later named vice president of production at the studio. She moved to United Artists in 1980, where she held the same title. By 1982, she had become an independent producer in partnership with Goldie Hawn. Together, they produced films such as “Protocol” (1984), “Wildcats” (1986), “Overboard” (1987), “Criss Cross” (1992), “My Blue Heaven” (1990), and “Something to Talk About” (1995). Sylbert also shared an Emmy for outstanding television movie as an executive producer of the 1995 HBO biopic “Truman,” starring Gary Sinise.
Born in New York City on October 6, 1939, Anthea Sylbert was educated at Barnard College and the Parsons School of Design. She made her big-screen debut as a costume designer on Arthur Hiller’s contemporary comedy “The Tiger Makes Out” in 1967. She collaborated with her then-husband Paul Sylbert, a production designer, on several films, but her most productive working relationship was with Paul’s twin brother, Richard Sylbert. Together, they worked on eight films, starting with “Rosemary’s Baby” and including “Chinatown.”
Sylbert also designed costumes for the stage, including two Broadway productions directed by Nichols: Neil Simon’s “The Prisoner of Second Avenue” in 1971 and Tom Stoppard’s “The Real Thing” in 1984, for which she received a Tony nomination. She also designed costumes for a New York production of the musical “The Fantasticks.”
In 2005, Sylbert received a career achievement award for film at the Costume Designers Guild Awards. She moved to Greece later in her life, where she lived with her second husband, actor Richard Romanus, until his death in December 2023.
Sylbert’s work on “Rosemary’s Baby” was particularly memorable. For the film, director Roman Polanski instructed her to make the audience think they were watching a Doris Day movie, aiming for an ordinary look to put viewers at ease. This approach contributed to the film’s chilling effect, as the ordinary setting contrasted sharply with the sinister plot.
Sylbert’s costume design for “Chinatown” earned her an Oscar nomination and widespread acclaim. Her work on the film was praised for its authenticity and attention to detail, capturing the highs and lows of 1930s style. Nicholson, who starred in the film, once said, “When The Ant does your clothes, you don’t have to act as much,” highlighting the impact of her designs on his performance.
Sylbert’s second Oscar nomination came for her work on “Julia,” a film set in Europe during World War II. Her costumes for the film were noted for their historical accuracy and ability to convey the characters’ personalities and circumstances.
Throughout her career, Sylbert demonstrated a remarkable ability to transition from the creative side of filmmaking to the business side. As an executive at Warner Bros. and United Artists, she was known for her skills in conflict resolution and her ability to navigate the complexities of the film industry. Her partnership with Goldie Hawn led to the creation of SylbertHawn Film Productions, which produced several successful films.
Sylbert’s legacy in the film industry is marked by her exceptional talent, versatility, and pioneering spirit. She broke barriers for women in Hollywood and left an indelible mark on the world of costume design and film production. Her work continues to inspire and influence filmmakers and designers today.
Anthea Sylbert is survived by her stepson, Robert Romanus.
Source: The Hollywood Reporter, Deadline
