One sunlit morning, I found myself on a journey through the Flinders Ranges, a region steeped in ancient history and cultural significance. The rugged landscape, home to the Adnyamathanha people, is a treasure trove of rock art that dates back tens of thousands of years, rivaling the famed Lascaux cave paintings in France.
Driving along a dirt track in an old Toyota Troopie, I was accompanied by Cliff Coulthard, a knowledgeable Adnyamathanha man. Cliff, with his grey-streaked beard and keen eyes, is a cultural interpreter at Iga Warta, an Indigenous tourism center run by his family. My eagerness to learn about the land and its history brought me back to this remarkable place, where the connection to the past is palpable.
The Flinders Ranges stretch from Arkaroola in the north to Mount Remarkable, encompassing various clan groups, including the Wailpi, Kuyani, Yadliaura, Biladappa, and Vanggarla. Collectively known as the Adnyamathanha, meaning “people of the hills or rocks,” they have inhabited this land for tens of thousands of years. I was eager to understand how this land has shaped their identity and how they, in turn, have influenced it.
As we drove deeper into the ranges, Cliff shared stories of the sacred sites that dot the landscape. After picking up a couple of tourists, we ventured further into a sheep station, where the rugged beauty of the land unfolded before us. The eroded peaks, which Cliff referred to as “guardians,” stood watch over the gorge below, a testament to the enduring presence of the Adnyamathanha people.
Upon reaching the creek bed at the mouth of the gorge, we were greeted by a stunning array of pastel rocks and river red gums. Cliff led us on a hike, guiding us to the upper gallery of rock engravings. As we walked, I began to see the landscape through a different lens. The rocks were not just geological formations; they were canvases of history, telling stories of the creatures that roamed this land and the people who walked alongside them.
Looking up at the cliffs, I spotted a dark engraving—a goanna, accompanied by a human footprint. This moment transformed my perception of the landscape. The once-static environment came alive with the presence of lizards, emus, and kangaroos, all captured in the rock art that adorned the cliffs. Cliff explained that the engravings we were observing were believed to be up to 45,000 years old, a remarkable connection to the past.
As we continued our exploration, Cliff pointed out various engravings, including depictions of medicine men and women, suns, and even trade lines representing the exchange of goods between different groups. He shared that the knowledge he was imparting came from the Elders of his community, who had passed down these stories through generations.
Cliff’s passion for preserving and sharing this knowledge was evident. He recounted his experiences as one of the first Adnyamathanha rangers involved in a project to document sacred sites in the 1970s. This initiative aimed to protect these sites from development and mining, ensuring that the stories and histories of the Adnyamathanha people would not be lost.
The connection between the Adnyamathanha and their land is profound. Archaeologist Jacinta Koolmatrie emphasizes that the Muda, or stories, link all places through narrative, forming the foundation of Adnyamathanha knowledge systems. These stories are essential for understanding how to live in harmony with the land, a practice that has been passed down for millennia.
During our drive back, Cliff shared his involvement in the discovery of Warratyi, a cave shelter that dates back 49,000 years. This site revealed a wealth of artifacts, including the earliest known use of ochre in Australia. The excavation provided evidence of human occupation over tens of thousands of years, showcasing the ingenuity and adaptability of the Adnyamathanha ancestors.
Cliff’s experiences in France, where he studied the Lascaux cave paintings, further highlighted the significance of rock art in understanding human history. He noted the similarities between the art found in Australia and that of Lascaux, but emphasized that the rock engravings in the Flinders Ranges are likely older. The oldest known rock art in Australia dates back around 17,300 years, but many believe there are older sites yet to be discovered.
As we explored the region, I was struck by the interconnectedness of the Adnyamathanha people and their environment. The rock art serves as a reminder of their enduring presence and the stories that continue to shape their identity. Unlike the cultures surrounding Lascaux, which have transformed over time, the Adnyamathanha maintain a living connection to their heritage.
The engravings at sites like Red Gorge and Arkaroo Rock tell stories of creation and connection to the land. The vibrant colors and intricate designs reflect a deep understanding of the environment and the creatures that inhabit it. Cliff’s reverence for these sites was palpable, as he recognized the importance of preserving this knowledge for future generations.
In the Flinders Ranges, the rock art is not merely a relic of the past; it is a living testament to the Adnyamathanha people’s relationship with their land. The stories embedded in the engravings serve as a bridge between the past and present, reminding us of the importance of cultural continuity.
As I stood before the ancient engravings, I felt a profound sense of connection to the people who had walked this land long before me. The handprint etched into the rock seemed to reach out across time, inviting me to engage with the stories of those who came before. In that moment, I understood that the art was not just a representation of history; it was a living expression of identity and belonging.
The journey through the Flinders Ranges was more than an exploration of rock art; it was a deep dive into the heart of a culture that has thrived for tens of thousands of years. The Adnyamathanha people’s connection to their land is a testament to the resilience of their culture and the importance of preserving their stories.
As I reflected on my experiences, I realized that the knowledge held by the Adnyamathanha is invaluable. It offers insights into sustainable living, ecological awareness, and the significance of cultural heritage. In a world that often overlooks the wisdom of Indigenous peoples, the stories of the Adnyamathanha serve as a reminder of the importance of connection—to the land, to each other, and to our shared history.
The rock art of the Flinders Ranges stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Adnyamathanha people. It invites us to explore the depths of our own humanity and to recognize the threads that connect us all across time and space. In this ancient landscape, we find not only the echoes of the past but also the promise of a future rooted in understanding and respect.
Source: Text Publishing, National Geographic, Arts Technica
