Walking through the empty restaurant hall towards the counter, I turn and enter the kitchen. A tantalizing aroma of tomato sauce fills the air, and here, amidst the cooking, I see what I have witnessed at home all my life: women dedicated to the craft of cooking, strong, focused, neither glamorous nor given to complaints.
MarÃa Teresa Guarracino—known as Tere to the Argentine community in Miami—stirs the largest pot while explaining to me, “This is why you can come here to eat every day, and you’ll never feel sick. What we put on the table is made the same day.”
Behind her, her daughter Agustina prepares small milanesa sandwiches in a box, assisted by Murlaine, a Haitian immigrant. They work silently and tirelessly.
This doesn’t sit well with authoritarians.
Professional and critical journalism is a fundamental pillar of democracy. It irks those who believe they are the sole bearers of truth.
On the other side, in front of a clay oven, a young Italian pizza master stretches the dough, spinning it in the air. It’s mesmerizing to watch him achieve a perfect circle every time. Before noon, this Italian bistro with an Argentine twist is waking up.
The restaurant is named Tatore, a nickname for Salvador, the father of MarÃa Teresa, who traveled from Sant’Agnello, Naples, to Buenos Aires at the age of three. His father had to fight in World War II. Salvador passed away in 2021. “He was very proud that we named the restaurant Tatore,” MarÃa Teresa recalls. Talking to him might have offered a glimpse into what it was like to travel on those ships and arrive in Argentina. Often, those who lived through significant events aren’t keen on digging up old memories.
“He always told us it was very similar to what they show in Titanic,” his daughter recounts.
MarÃa Teresa is the product of a love story between two Italian families who started exploring gastronomy in the mid-20th century. “My maternal grandfather opened a fruit shop and ice cream parlor in La Plata, and my father worked there until he married my mother,” she says, sitting near the restaurant’s window, a well-known spot for Argentine visitors in Miami.
It’s worth noting that Tatore is over 15 kilometers north of Miami’s bustling nightlife. This accessible yet urban location has made it a favorite for Argentine families who enjoy sitting at long tables, greeting one another. “Every 29th, we make gnocchi, and you can eat as much as you want for a fixed price. It fills with friends. I love standing at the door, welcoming them, and seating everyone. It feels like I’m inviting them into my home,” MarÃa Teresa explains, mentioning the 29th tradition that often confuses visitors from other nationalities who come without reservations.
When it comes to food, there’s something marvelous about the Argentine culinary phenomenon in this piece of Latin America that insists on being part of the United States: “We adapted the recipes to the Argentine taste,” Tere explains. “Most of our dishes are of Italian origin but prepared differently in our country.”
Tatore showcases the green, white, and red flag, but nothing is more Argentine than Italian food adapted to the local palate. According to MarÃa Teresa, the main difference between their versions and the originals “lies in the sauces. For example, we use more cream in our carbonara than they do in Italy. Sometimes an Italian visits, and we explain that we use more cream because that’s the Argentine twist.”
There’s another detail that defines MarÃa Teresa’s graciousness. She can cover any position in the restaurant. When they first opened, passersby were intrigued as she kneaded pizza and pasta in plain sight. If someone mentions a different preparation method from Italy, she personally goes to the kitchen to make the dish according to their preferences.
Visitors leave messages for Tere on Tatore’s walls, and those entering greet her warmly, mirroring the affection she shows in her hospitality.
The journey of succeeding in Miami by cooking the dishes MarÃa Teresa grew up with has spanned ten years. The desire to emigrate was fueled by her husband’s death, with Agustina being the driving force behind their move.
At Tatore, mother and daughter blend the culinary knowledge of three generations while adding new chapters to their family history. Notably, in the late ’60s, Salvador and his father-in-law founded Freddo, the famous ice cream brand.
Despite both MarÃa Teresa and Agustina holding university degrees, their immigrant status kept them rooted in their culinary heritage. By the end of our conversation, several tables are occupied. The décor, hand-crafted by Tere and Agustina, features black and white photos of Salvador.
Salvador never visited the restaurant named in his honor, as his age and health prevented it. But MarÃa Teresa, Agustina, and the families gathering there ensure his memory lives on.
Opening a Tatore branch would extend its legend and be commercially logical, especially amid the current boom in Argentine cuisine. However, mother and daughter hesitate, knowing their promise isn’t just about good food; the magic lies in making each visitor feel at home.
